39 Rue de Jean
By Jennifer Thompson
Before Lowcountry became a recognized term, Southern food was a blend of 3 major cuisines: Native American, West African, and European (especially French). The Native American introduced corn and salting meats; the African Americans introduced various traditions including okra and the influence of stewing methods; and the European/French techniques. The French influence was heavy in the Lowcountry, and 39 Rue de Jean wanted to highlight this in the Charleston culinary scene.
The original concept was based on the desire to have great French food offered here in Charleston. General Manager Mike Krajewski describes the vision when it opened in 2001. “The cuisine was based of classic Brasserie items dating back to the Brasserie style restaurants in France. Lots of country food is served in these establishments, such as slow braised meats, Moules frites, salads and comforting soups. Not to be forgotten are a moderately priced wine list featuring French classic wines and plenty of beer as well.”
A two-story brick warehouse built in 1880 was chosen as the location. Seating is a mix of small high-top tables, booths, and stools lined up to the large bar. The Upstairs at Rue is available as a private dining room or event space that can accommodate up to 200 guests. Overlooking Upper King St., it features vaulted ceilings, exposed brick, and a private entrance, providing a separate experience from the downstairs dining room.
Chef Fred Neuville was the opening chef/partner and created the original menu. Some of his core items are still on the menu today as the restaurant maintains its mission on offering French country comfort food. It met the other aspects of a French Brasserie as well. A Brasserie is more than a brewery or pub; it serves as the social hub of the neighborhood, and Rue, as local affectionately refer to it, fills that here in Charleston.
Now Chef Marcus Shell is the executive chef, and it is a match made in heaven. Chef brings both strong core techniques and creativity to the table. I asked how he balances this creativity within an established guideline. He says, “I often speak of the foundation of cooking. I see the foundation as technique; it's quite universal. If you look closely, the foundation stays the same. Technique changes based on the environment and what you have at your disposal and the same goes for ingredients. Geographically, ingredients may change but the goal is the same. Some people have gas stoves, and some are in seasoned pots on an open flame in a village. It's my job to utilize the frame of a French Brasserie to push boundaries, highlight local, and enhance classics by making them contemporary, and using the things around me geographically.”
Shell’s journey started in his childhoood kitchen in New Bedford, MA, a city known for commercial fishing and scalloping industries. He then attended Le Cordon Bleu Campus Boston Campus, graduating 2011, served alongside various executive chefs, and then a year as Sous Chef at 82 Queen. It is an impressive resume. But when asked about his inspirations, his answer is simple. “Firstly, it's always my mother. When you talk about undying belief, she was the definition. Through my sobriety and my desire to prove to myself, I've found ways to become the man she always saw me as.”
He continues, “My mentor Geoff Rhyne was another individual that saw more in me than I saw in myself when we met. He spent countless hours teaching and pushing me to find a better version of myself. Also, Anthony Bourdain. I not only admire him for his culinary prowess, but primarily for his appreciation for culture and the beauty of humanity. He spoke and shed light on the small things and the greatness of the unsung heroes.”
The road seemed set for Chef Marcus to land at 39 Rue de Jean. Here he shines. Shell was awarded South Carolina Ambassador Chef 2023. This program was established in 2015 to recognize chefs who best represent the state’s authentic culinary culture with their own style, professional creativity, and incorporation of buying local. The Ambassador showcases South Carolina’s food heritage with cooking demonstrations, guest appearances, and educational programs. Shell says the best part of the experience has been his exposure to local farmers and working with the other chefs in the program, who are “amazing chefs and even better people.”
For authenticity, creativity, and comfort, head to 39 Rue de Jean and savor an integral part of the Lowcountry heritage.
39 Rue de Jean is in downtown Charleston, at King St. and John St. Hours are: Brunch Sun 11:00 am–3:00 pm Lunch Fri, Sat 11:00 am–3:00 pm Dinner Mon–Sat 4:00 pm–10:00 pm Sunday Dinner Sun 4:00 pm–9:00 pm.